The Power of Light

           
Lighting can greatly enhance a space. Considering everyone from a veterinarian to an archaeologist thinks they are also a designer, why am I so frequently asked, 'How far above a dining table should my chandelier be?', 'Is it ok to hang a chandelier somewhere other than a dining room?', 'How big is to big for pendant fixtures and what height off the countertop should they be placed?'

These are all great questions, but knowing the answers to these questions is part of my skill set and talent as a designer. My first recommendation is to work with a designer and allow them to work their magic on the best scale, proportion and style. The alternative, is if you are taking the time to read this blog, then I am going to share a few helpful hints.

1. When placing a chandelier over a dining room table, place 30" above the table for a room that has 8' ceiling heights. For every additional foot of ceiling, raise 3".

2. When determining the size of the chandelier, add the width and length of the room and translate the feet into inches. Ex. 14' + 12' = 26' which makes for a 26" chandelier. Another way is to divide the table width in half to come up with the size of the chandelier.

3. For a bar top, the bottom of the pendant should be 36" from the surface. This allows people to comfortably stand at the bar and not have fixtures in their way.

With the popularity of mixing styles, the most important rule of thumb is SCALE AND PROPORTION. If the fixture is really heavy then you will want it to be smaller than the fixed rule of half the table width. When working with a daintier fixture you can get away with it being larger.

Remember, chandeliers not only look great in dining room, but also make a great visual surprise in other rooms of your home. 

    

Veneer

Why veneer? People often ask me whether or not a piece of furniture is solid wood or veneer, as if the word veneer is a mark of inferiority. If shopping for furniture, you may have been told (incorrectly) that solid wood is always better than veneer. Most people who have never attempted to make a piece of furniture (yes, I have and wow was it clunky!) do not realize that the art of veneering as a technique has been in existence for a very long time- it goes back to ancient Egypt.

The purpose of veneer is twofold- 1. to bring definition to a casegood through the use of a particular graining pattern or patterns known for their beauty 2. to prevent the warping and splitting which sometimes occurs with solid wood when it expands and contracts from changes in humidity. (try googling solid wood vs. veneers- furniture.com). When veneering is done right, and the materials are properly cured, there is no peeling, splitting or curling of the veneer from the frame. It's an art, a craft which requires a great deal of skill. The craftsperson has a deliberate choice to make when it comes to pattern matching a veneer- book matching, end matching, four-way matching or slip matching. In much the same way an accomplished seamstress or tailor will consider pattern, scale and repeat when creating a pattern for upholstery or clothing, the most accomplished furniture cabinetmaker will consider which graining pattern complements the overall shape and silhouette of the piece best.

It comes down to this- when shopping for furniture, purchase the best you can afford. There's a reason why good quality veneered pieces are found in antiques shops (Hepplewhite and Chippendale) and junk is found at... well, junk shops & yard sales. Don't ask the question for the sake of asking the question- Is your furniture solid wood or veneer. Hello! You have to want to understand the answer. (p.s. This photo is taken from Southern Living Magazine- an antique "chiffonier" or chest of drawers).